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Rain wig care

June 11, 2013

It’s raining, it’s pouring. … It’s HORRIBLE sheitel weather! Try these essential rules and let us know if you have any others to add;

#1 Cover up! Use oversized hoods, umbrellas and even those plastic rain bonnets whenever possible. 

#2 Don’t brush! Until it’s dry, that is. Even the straightest hair can look frizzy when brushed while half wet. Wait till it dries, then smooth it it as much as possible

#3 hang it up! If you lay it on your dresser folded in half it willtake on that shape, so smooth it out on a head to air dry add much as possible

Changing your bangs

June 9, 2013

question by S.G.O.

I have a wig with a side part and bangs. if I want to move the part to the center and get the bangs to split and go out to each side, how do I style it so the bangs stay off my forehead and out of my eyes?

In order to wear a wig that was cut to be worn to the side, we first recommend you consult with a stylist or better yet, the one that cut it, to discuss if it will look even and sit properly. Also make sure your wig has a multidirectional top and the part can in fact be moved. This includes the thin layer of hair sewn in underneath the front edge of the wig, which may be sewn straight down and therefore moved to either side, or it may be sewn in one direction or another and cause you problems if you try to move it in a direction other than the one it is sewn. you also need to make sure the location where you want to part is not too thin along the top by the front edge because this will make the edge of the fabric very visible and not natural looking at all.

Once you’ve determined these answers, it can be pretty simple to move: 

1. keep in mind that a multi directional top has to be wet and air dried or blown into place in order to stay

2. Use a tail comb or other pointed object to draw a line where you want the part: we recommend a subtle curve or parting just slightly off the center for the most natural results. 

3. allow the wig to air dry combed slightly exaggeratedly back away from the face. This will allow it to dry with some height and a little more natural lift. If you are handy with a brush and blowdryer, use a small round brush parallel to the part to blow a little bit of height at the roots, then turn the tips of the bang section away from the face for a natural sweep away from the face.

Natural Wig fronts:

June 9, 2013

There are many different fabrics that can be used to finish the front edge of a wig, and each texture and fabric may affect the way the hair lays and behaves when styled. Thicker fabrics may make the front edge of your hairline look more natural or less natural: Your definition of natural is also going to vary depending on if you prefer a thinner, flatter edge or a thicker, frizzier edge, and usually stems from what type of hair you grew up with. The front edge of a wig is also affected by how the hair is sewn into the edge, so there are a lot of variables that can affect the front of your wig.

There is a popular movement to use lace in the front edge of a wig. This super fine fabric, usually in a skin tone color, can either be folded for a finished edge or left open and unfolded to sit flush against the skin. When folded it creates a thin, flat surface for the hair to be sewn into, so its really natural, but when this lace is left unfolded and unfinished along the edge, the fabric sits flat and almost invisible on the surface of the forehead, giving the illusion that the first few stitches of hair are sewn directly into the skin, or “coming out of your head”. 

Not everyone can wear a lace front. Firstly they are prone to wear and tear and usually have to be removed and replaced every few years. This is an expensive proposition: usually about $300-500 every three years. The lace also needs to be sitting flush against skin, so it depends on a perfect fit. Finally, if you have too much baby hair along your hairline, the lace fabric will show again that hair, as opposed to blending into the skin. Nothing makes a wig more visible and unnatural than seeing an unfinished edge of fabric along the front hairline. 

The next most natural way is to add baby hair along the edge of the hairline. On a person baby hair refers to those tiny little hairs that never quite grow to full length. on a wig, it refers to the hairs sewn in to the underneath surface of the front edge of the wig. (Some people also use the term “baby hairs” to refer to adding in some short curly hairs to the top surface of the wig to add height or a fuzzy effect along the edge.) These hairs are forced by the construction of the wig to sit flat against your skin, simulating your own baby hairs. Needless to say, this effect is totally lost if the wig is not a perfect fit and lined up exactly with your hairline, so make sure to consult with a stylist who can check your fit before bothering to add these hairs in. 

The other best way to cover the front edge of your hairline is to cut bangs. This is the beginning of a whole conversation about why the front of a multi-directional wig is always so heavy and why they only look natural when cut into bangs. We will iy”h go into a discussion in our next post about how multi-directional tops are sewn, why they always fall forward, and what to do about it….

To pony or not to pony? PART 2

June 9, 2013

How to pick which ponytail is right for you:

Do your research. Just because ponytails wigs are cheaper than other wigs, doesn’t mean you can’t get burned. Make a couple of phone calls first. There are several manufacturers who make wigs exclusive for ponytails, and those several brands are carried by dozens of sheitel machers, so if you get prices over the phone, make sure you ask for which brand names you are being quoted for. There are also a couple of key point to keep in mind:

#1 Price is obviously the most important. Decide your price range and stick to it. Spending outside your budget can make you resent the wig and never really love it. You will always have problems with it. In the $500-$900 price range, you will only find very processed human hair (which often includes Asian hair, even if you’re told it’s European). These wigs can be counted on to get knotty or stringy looking very quickly. In the $1200-$1800 price range you will still find processed human hair, but this category often lasts longer. This may be because the hair is less processed, maybe not dyed, or using a higher quality process that lasts longer. These wigs are most often constructed to be worn down, but still will not compare to your better quality wigs. Once you go over $2000, you can count on the hair behaving more nicely, oxidizing less quickly, but still the possibility of knotting exists. These will be higher quality hair, but with some minor processing that makes it still not the best hair around. 
You can always buy a quality virgin European hair wig, that is long enough to put into a ponytail, cut a few bangs and wear it like that for a few years. Then when you get bored of the look, you can re-cut it into another look and wear it down. It may take a little refurbishing after a couple of years, but this hair is going to last a whole lot longer than any of the other options, and your sheitel macher should help you out if there is any knotting on a wig in this price range. (All of the above prices are based on my personal mark-up and may differ based on individual sheitel machers’ different prices and/or sale prices.)

#2 How the wig fits is equally important. As I mentioned earlier, when you pull all the hair away from your face and neck. You have to make sure you are completely covered. Any of your own hair sticking out may make the edge unnatural and obvious. Small, medium and larger sizes are available from some companies, making the right fit much easier to find. After choosing your size, check if it needs to be taken in at all. A good pony needs to be snug to stay put all day. 

#3 Construction and how the hair is sewn is also important. Only one or two companies make their ponytail wigs without a multi-directional top, so that aspect of construction is almost equal among most ponytails. How the back of the wig is sewn makes the most difference. Many pony wigs are made with machine sewn “wefts” (the strings of hair that are stitched onto the cap). This hair can only be pulled in the direction in which it is sewn, so they sew in the last few rows on the bottom facing upwards, to go into the ponytail smoothly. This construction is only good if you are wearing the wig ONLY in a ponytail. When worn down, those hairs that are sewn upwards will “jump” away from the head and split in a funny way, exposing your cap underneath. There are exceptions to this, but they are very rare and you should consider wearing this construction only in a ponytail. One other brand combines machine sewn and hand sewn construction, which allows the thinnest distribution of hair, making it lighter and thinner in a rubber band. When sewn into the proper stretch net, these hand sewn stitches can flip up or down, allowing this ponytail to be worn up or down. Other companies just sew all of the wefts downward, but they add the hair at the nape of the neck a little more thickly, so that you have extra coverage when you lift up your pony. These wigs cannot be worn in a pony too high up in the back of your head, as you will likely leave some of your cap underneath exposed.

Last and most difficult to figure out is whether or not the wig you are buying matches all your needs. Seriously spend time practicing in the mirror, maybe on an older wig, on a friends ponytail wig or even go into a few stores and tell them you are just looking. Try to see if you would wear the pony higher up or lower down, or if you don’t like the look of a pony at all. If you are wearing it down, ask around to find out if it gets knotty when worn down. Also, if you have more expensive sheitels at home, be aware that the most common reaction to cheaper quality hair is that it gets “dirtier” faster. This may mean that it looks greasy or frizzy earlier than you would expect from your more expensive wigs, and may need to be washed and set more often. 

For people who are accustomed only to more expensive hair, a ponytail wig may seem like a brief reprieve from spending too much on your wigs, but in the end, you may never be happy with it. My last but most important recommendation is not to buy on sale. Many of these sales force you to make an impulse decision, and the best way to decide on your wog is to take time to research your options. If you’ve already done the research, and you happen upon a sale at the exact brand you chose to buy, then just make sure to check if the cut is included. If not make sure to add that to the cost in your head so that you are comparing prices properly. 

pony sheital pricing

June 9, 2013

Mind if I ask- what’s the average price for a ‘good’ quality pony shaitel? (I don’t know if you answer price questions, but it’s something I would love an opinion about…)

Price is such a variable thing because it really depends on every different sheital macher (if you are using a sheital macher).

It also varies based on the quality of hair and length, and you have to consider whether or not the cut is included or you are going to pay extra. so the price ranges that we can give you are just that – only ranges and estimates.

Now that we said that, we can tell you that the going rate now, are approximately $500-$1500 for cheaper hair mostly depending on length and brand and $2000-$3000 for better quality hair.

Some brands are above or below these ranges but this is our best estimate.

Creating side swept bangs

May 28, 2013

Creating side swept bangs

The secret to bangs is not just in the perfect cut or the quality of the hair but there is also very specific technique to get the perfect sweep to frame your face.
Obviously every wig is different and exactly where it settles on your face will also affect how your bangs will sit on a daily basis.
Using this step by step guide you can maintain your bang in between professional washes:
1. start holding a small brush parallel to your part. On medium-> low heat, list straight up away from the part.
2. pull the brush forward and down to bring the bangs down across your forehead. keep the blowdryer at a safe distance and heat so as not to burn your bangs.
3. as you come near the ends of the bangs, wrap the ends tightly around the brush and turn it towards the outside of your face.
This will give the bangs a sweeping finish away from your face.

To pony or not to pony? PART 1

May 28, 2013

For my first column, someone suggested I address ponytail related questions: “Should I spend that kind of money on something that can only be worn in a pony?” “Can it only be worn up in a pony, or also down as a full sheitel?” And of course “What’s the difference between a $600 pony and a $3000 pony?”

Why to buy a pony:
For starters, I am a big believer in the philosophy “you get what you pay for”. In most cases, and if you have an honest sheitel macher, more expensive wigs are more expensive for a reason and cheaper wigs… You get the point. If you’re thinking about buying a new, gorgeous, expensive wig but can’t afford to go all out, then don’t buy a cheaper sheitel and expect it to be the same. If you’re going to buy a ponytail sheitel and expect it to be just like a more expensive wig, it won’t. Wigs made to be worn in a ponytail and priced accordingly are made from cheaper, more processed hair and will behave poorly when worn down. Often this is because the hair is so processed that it gets stick straight right away, very knotted, oxidizes and changes color much faster than other better quality hair, etc… 

Processed hair refers to dyed or otherwise color treated, relaxed, body-waved or permed hair. Each of the above mentioned treatments compromises the quality of the hair, and shorten the lifespan of the sheitel. Manufacturers and hair suppliers have to do something with their frizzier, coarser hair too, so they apply all sorts of treatments to make it useable. This treated hair often goes into ponytail wigs so that they can’t get all knotted if they’re up in a pony all day. 

That being said, there are lots of motivating reasons to get a pony sheitel: price, comfort, and flexibility in styling. 

#1 They are cheaper than comparable length, better quality wigs. The lower cost comes primarily from money saved on the hair. There are very few shortcuts taken in production that can save the manufacturer money, so just understand that the lower prices come from lesser quality hair. Then again, for less money, you don’t mind abusing it and working it a little harder than your more expensive wigs. 

#2 They are believed to be more comfortable, as the hair is off of your neck. Unfortunately this is only part true. Most people fail to realize that a pony wig has to fit better than any other wig, because you need full coverage. When you pull all the hair away from your face and neck, you have to be completely covered for tznius and aesthetic reasons; it just won’t look natural if your own hairline shows. The pony wig has to be extra snug, actually, with lots of extra clips and combs to keep it in place and to keep your coverage intact. They can also be very back-heavy when you sweep all the hair into a ponytail and put all the weight of the hair into one central place in the back of your head, putting even more pressure on all those extra clips and combs. But the bottom line is that if you get very sweaty (I see a surge of poytail sales in the summer months) then you can’t beat having all that hair off of your neck, but still having the full coverage that a full sheitel (as opposed to a fall) gives. 

#3 They serve more purposes than just wearing in a half pony. Again, you have to be carful not to expect a ponytail to able to be worn down if the hair or construction just won’t cooperate, but if it will, you can wear it half up, in a full pony, under hats (like thos cute new slouchy berets everyone is wearing pushed back on their heads), in a bun… As a matter of fact, more of my customer would rather put their poytail wig into an “updo” for a wedding than abuse their more expensive wigs with all that hairspray, bobby pins and teasing involved in getting dressed up. Doing that actually frees up your dressier wigs for sheva brochos the week after, too.


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